Chain -- Use the “12 links equals
12 inches” rule. Measurements of 12 1/8”+ are grounds for replacement.
Use one of our chain wear indicators for a precise measurement. A worn
chain will quickly wear your chainrings and cassettes.
Chainrings/Cogs -- Inspect for
straightness, bad teeth or small chips. Excessive chain suck with a
new chain usually indicates that you need a new chainring. Check chainring
bolts for tightness using a torque wrench for accuracy. Do not overtighten.
Crank/Bottom Bracket -- Check for
looseness/smoothness. Remove the chain and spin the cranks around. They
should spin freely. If tightening crank bolts doesn’t solve the problem,
rework bottom bracket (cartridge or cup-and-seal).
Handlebar -- Check for bending
or looseness. If it’s bent or if there is any indications of cracks
or stress areas, replace it.
Pedals -- Check for axle play by
wiggling the pedal. Clean and repack bearings once a year at least.
Tighten clips and check straps/clips for excessive wear. Clipless folks
check release entities for wear/lubrication.
Saddle/Seatpost -- Look for saddle
rail deformities or cuts in the upholstered material. Lube seatpost
liberally with white lithium grease for proper operation. Use electrical
tape on small tears.
Wheels -- Check rims for cracks,
dings, dents, loose or broken spokes or other deformity. True wheels-if
you can’t do it yourself, take it to a shop-a trued wheel is a strong
wheel. Check hub bearings for smoothness/lack of play.
All information supplied is for reference only. Have all installations
and repairs done by a professional mechanic.